Baja California Sur: Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo & Todos Santos

April-May, 2021

When we got fully vaccinated in late February of this year, we thought we had to go somewhere to celebrate. How about Catalina Island? I looked into it, and the winter discount season was coming to an end before we could go. Then Travelzoo sent us an offer we thought we could not refuse: $120/night for 2 at an all inclusive resort in Los Cabos. Flights were around $250 per person, and the rental car could be had for $120 for 6 days. When everything was said and done, our departure date was set at the end of April. Darn, almost two more months of waiting to fly somewhere?

I would not include a photo of a flight in most cases, but, this was our first in a long long time – or that’s how it felt.

Los Cabos is comprised of two cities: Cabo San Lucas (population: 202,000) and San Jose del Cabo (population: 136,000), 20 miles apart. I didn’t know this till this trip, and it took me a while to sort out the names with multi words. There is a freeway connecting these two cities, and Los Cabos Airport (SJD) – the sixth busiest airport in Mexico – is north of San Jose del Cabo. Unlike most other cities in Mexico, Cabs are not necessarily cheap (for instance, the airport to Cabo San Lucas often costs $40-100) in Los Cabos. So renting a car made sense for us at the price we paid, we thought. Well, it turned out, we had to sit through a time share presentation in order to get the quoted price from the local agency we made a reservation with. Good thing we had time. If you are curious about public transportation and taxi options, here’s a good information page.

Many resorts are located along the ocean side of this freeway, and, ours, Krystal Grand, was one of them. We did not expect a super luxury place with what we were paying, and there was no surprise. Food was decent, service was o.k., and the facilities were adequate including a free parking service.

We didn’t realize Sea of Cortes in this part of Baja was too rough to swim in, thus, all the resorts had big swimming pools for swimming while looking at the sea, like in the first photo on this page.

Krystal Grand was actually only a mile or two from downtown San Jose del Cabo. Of the three towns we visited, we liked SJDC the best. We parked the car on a side street a few blocks away from the main square (Plaza Mijares), and we walked around.

Just to make sure you know where you are, there’s a big name plate for the town in front of the main catholic church (Mission San Jose del Cabo) on the town square.
And the town square has a huge national flag displayed like in so many town squares in Mexico
Plenty of shops and places to eat and drink line the streets. Tourists and locals mingle as they become part of the scene.
Art works were everywhere. We missed the Art Walk which happened on Thursdays.

Due to the pandemic, many businesses were not open. Thus, we just went back to the hotel and ate. Maybe because of the high temperature, we didn’t have a lot of energy, either. We did enjoy our visit, though.

Cabo San Lucas: colorful for tourists’ eyes

We had been to Cabo San Lucas as a cruise stop in December 2019. At that time, we signed up for a boat tour & got to see all there was to see off the coast of CSL. The shore excursions offered by the cruise ship were not cheap, but, we booked a glass bottom boat tour found on Tripadvisor.com. We got to see the Arch rock and other top attractions for $20 per person. We thought it was worthwhile to do this tour.

the view from our boat tour
All the boat tours start from this marina.

This time we wanted to discover other parts of Cabo San Lucas. We drove into town and wanted to check out the cathedral, but parking was impossible around there. After driving around to park, we drove into a shopping center and paid a fee (not unreasonable) to park there. We didn’t know this shopping center was connected to the Marina – we just could not get too far away from it no matter how we arrived in town either by ship or a car.

Cabo San Lacas seemed to be basically a tourist town. Locals provided goods and services to the visitors, and the most tourists either stayed at a resort or swung in and out on a cruise ship. Developed from a small fishing village, there was not a whole lot of “local culture” that a visitor could experience.

Yes, there’s a colorful name plate for this town, too! You actually find it almost everywhere you go in Mexico.

Todos Santos (population: 6,485) is a little artists’ colony an hour north of Cabo San Lucas. It is pretty much a one street (Benito Juarez Street) town, and is pretty laid back and welcoming. Street parking was not hard when we were there.

You will have to work really hard to get lost in this town. The main drag that led us here from the freeway continues through the town & that’s where most things are on the uphill slope.
Jill Logan Gallery. One thing they have enough of on one street in Todos Snatos: galleries
Mission La Paz was established in early 1720’s.
Museo de la Casa de Cultura looks like a big building in the little town & it has a nice courtyard. You are not going there to find a compelling exhibit, though.
Is this the hotel that the group Eagles sings about? Some want to believe so.
Many of the restaurants were not open either because of the pandemic or we got there on a Monday. We were happy that we walked into La Morena: great food, nice setting – and the fun bathroom signage.
No, this photo is not about the restaurant but the ice cream shop, Rocco, which was on a side street. It was a hot day. Not that we would’ve missed a chance to taste a good scoop because of weather.

The restaurant that I really wanted to try was Hierbabuena which is off the highway before reaching Todos Santos. A friend of mine who goes to Todos Santos as often as she can manage swears by this restaurant, but we were too hungry to wait till 1 PM opening time.

Maybe next time, we will start the day late & go to Hierbabuena first, have a leisurely lunch, then head on to Todos Santos. That may well be a nice full day.

The best part of our package at Krystal Grand included the free Covid-19 test, which we needed in order to get back to the U.S. We usually preferred the old colonial towns in central regions over resort beach towns in Mexico. But the pandemic brought us here, and, we were glad we did finally spend some time in Los Cabos. Now we know for sure that our original preference was valid.

California to Montana: a Road Trip to 3+ National Parks

July 2020

We always thought we would visit more of the national parks in the U.S. — some day. Covid-19 travel restrictions grounded us at home beginning in March of 2020, and we decided this summer would be a good time to act on our vague plan. We already had an invitation from our friends in Montana, so it was easy to pick which parks to visit: Grand Teton, Yellowstone, and Glacier. I had been to the first two 30 years or so ago, but Pat had not. We could just drive there. It should be simple and easy, right?

It ended up being a 20-night trip covering almost 5,000 miles. We drove mostly in sparsely populated areas with open roads under big skies. The feeling of liberation was sweet after being cooped up for a few months. But it was a lot of driving! And we were hitting the peak tourist season in this part of the country, and that meant high prices for lodgings. This domestic road trip cost as much or more than our other trips in more exotic places around the globe which involved flying, $3,000. This is after taking into consideration free nights and meals at friends’ houses. So was it worth it? Of course!

Day 1: L.A. to Truckee; 7 hours of driving (487 miles) on I-5 and I-80. Staying with friends in Truckee (population: 16,400), just north of Lake Tahoe.

Day 2: relaxing in Truckee

Day 3: 4.5 hour drive (320 miles) to Elko, Nevada. Stayed at Ramada Inn ($76 with free full breakfast) On the way there, we stopped at a Costco Gas in Reno to fill up. Later we found out that Costco Gas was not all that much cheaper than regular gas stations in Nevada/Idaho/Montana.

Elko (population: 20,300) was a quirky little town with a few casinos and cowboy-hipster downtown

Day 4: decided to check out Craters of the Moon National Monument on the way to Idaho Falls. 4 hours (254 miles) on US-93 to the park. Stopped in Shoshone (ID) for lunch. After the park, continued on for 90 minutes (86 miles) on US-20 to Idaho Falls & checked into the Airbnb room ($90) we had rented for the night.

Craters of the Moon National Monument

Day 5: 2 hours (112 miles) to Grand Teton National Park. Drove around the park following the map provided at the entrance to the park. Drove 40 minutes (30 miles) to Victor, Idaho, (population: 2,200) & checked into an Airbnb apartment ($120)

Day 6: 2 hours (105 miles) to the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park. Drove around the southern half of the park  covering the Old Faithful, West Thumb, Hayden Valley (wild animal viewing area). The NP had only 50% of usual summer crowd due to the pandemic, but, still, we had a hard time finding a parking spot at the major attractions.

Met up with friends at a KOA Camp ground in West Yellowstone & spent the night in a basic log cabin ($150) with shared bathrooms in the compound.

Day 7: Our friends led us through southwestern Montana along the western edges of Yellowstone park on US-20 up to Bozeman, then, turned southwest toward Ennis (population: 849) passing the historical Bozeman Trail. A quick whiskey tasting at Willie’s Distillery in Ennis, had lunch in town, and drove west to Virginia City (population: 207). A night at Bonanza Inn ($90).

Bozeman Trail: this trail to the gold fields was opened up in 1864
a room in this inn was quite comfy

Day 8: Drove back up to Bozeman, an attractive college (Montana State University) town of 46,000 people, had lunch, then drove east on I-90 to Billings where our friends lived. Billings is the largest city in Montana with population of 110,000.

Day 9: Drove a little over an hour to Red Lodge (population: 2,200) & had lunch. Continued driving on Beartooth Highway for another hour or so to reach Beartooth Pass Summit. This is another way to approach Yellowstone NP, but, we turned around to return to Billings.

Day 10: Chilled out in Billings. Had lunch at a hipster bar/restaurant in downtown.

Day 11: Drove northwest toward Helena (240 miles). First stop was our favorite in Montana, Two Dot, population 67. Two Dot Bar had the best grilled cheese sandwich I’ve ever had!

Next stop was Bair Family Museum in Martinsdale. An interesting family history reveals a part of the American adventure in the vast open space in Montana. We arrived in Helena in time for a BBQ dinner at a friend’s house. Helena is the state capital & has a population of 32,000.

Day 12: Drove 200 miles northwest to reach Columbia Falls (population: 5,400), our home base for the next 4 nights. Our friends recommended Meadow Lake Resort ($150/night),and it was a great choice: very spacious and comfortable.

Day 13: It was a short drive to Glacier National Park. It truly was one of the most impressive national parks of any country in the world!

Dinner was at Packer’s Roost back in town.

Day 14: Drove a half an hour south to have lunch in Bigfork (population: 4,600), a cute little town on the northeastern coast of Flathead Lake. Many restaurants were closed due to Covid-19.

Drove up north 35 miles to Whitefish (population: 7,700), a hipster town on the southern end of Whitefish Lake.

The Lodge at Whitefish Lake was a good spot for afternoon snacks and drinks.

Day 15: relaxing day in town & BBQ at the RV camp site where our friends parked their RV

Day 16: 470 miles of driving toward Pocatello, Idaho

Driving along Flathead Lake which is 30 miles long (16 miles wide) – it looked to us more like an ocean than a lake
a lunch stop in Hamilton, MT, population 4,700
Certainly not the items I see in my sporting goods store in Los Angeles

gorgeous scenery all around in Montana and Idaho

a break in Salmon (population: 3,300), Idaho
more gorgeous nothingness
Pocatello sunset

Day 17: Pocatello to Elko, Nevada – 424 miles. Our first stop for the day was at Antelope Island State Park, 3.5 hours due south from Pocatello.

The lunch stop at Red Iguana in Salk Lake City was so satisfying. Some say it is THE best Mexican restaurant in the U.S., and we could tell why – inventive, delicious food! Thanks to the pandemic, we were able to get in without waiting more than 10 minutes.

We did not stop in the city center because nothing seemed to be open including the Mormon Church.

This stop 110 miles west of Salk Lake City on I-80 was totally worth it. Just pay attention to the roadside sign & the parking lot is right off the freeway.

We arrived in Elko right on time for the annual Balloon Festival, but, it had been canceled. We stayed at a Day’s Inn ($65) so that we could drive in and out with ease.

Day 18: Drove 340 miles to Truckee with a lunch stop in a little town of Lovelock. Not many restaurants were open, though.

Day 19: rest in Truckee

Day 20: drove 290 miles to Pacific Grove, CA, with a lunch stop in Gilroy

We stayed at Monterey Peninsula Inn ($96), had dinner at Fishwife restaurant (too chilly to be sitting at an outdoor table) and rested.

Day 21: drove 320 miles to home mostly along the coast with a lunch stop in San Luis Obispo.

a break at the Ragged Point Inn

San Luis Obispo is a fun stop with lots of meal choices. Novo was quite good for our lunch.

Well, it took me 15 months to finish this post. I did start working on it right after our trip, but, I just could not bother with writing or any kind of mild work as the pandemic lingered. I know this trip sustained me through the rest of 2020, though. Now it’s November of 2021, and, after 3 trips to Mexico and spending a month driving around in Spain this year, I finally feel I can do something other than idling in/on a hammock.

Antarctica: Return Journey (Day 9 – 10)

December 2019  [by Bill]

return - Edited

November 30 – December 2:

After leaving Antarctica, we made our way back through the Drake Passage, Beagle Channel, and into Ushuaia, Argentina.

Sailed by Cape Horn (800+ ships have sunk off of this rocky coastal area)

CapeHornDetailMap
map by Johantheghost on Wikipedia

It takes 2+ days sailing time to get from Antarctica back to Ushuaia, Argentina. Once again, we had prepared for terrible weather going through the notorious Drake Passage, but the weather was even nicer on the return voyage then heading out. So lucky…worn a t shirt out on the deck for a few hours…crazy nice out.

We actually docked early in the morning on December 2, and disembarked at 8:30 AM.

My 11-day Antarctica Expedition has concluded, and for me, I had an absolutely amazing time. 

So the price: $6,499 for 11-days (2-bed cabin)
Booked very last minute, hoping to find a deal. (I called the cruise companies directly & compared the prices they were offering.) 

return2 - Edited

Antarctica Voyage by Bill: 2019