Baja California Sur: Cabo San Lucas, San Jose del Cabo & Todos Santos

April-May, 2021

When we got fully vaccinated in late February of this year, we thought we had to go somewhere to celebrate. How about Catalina Island? I looked into it, and the winter discount season was coming to an end before we could go. Then Travelzoo sent us an offer we thought we could not refuse: $120/night for 2 at an all inclusive resort in Los Cabos. Flights were around $250 per person, and the rental car could be had for $120 for 6 days. When everything was said and done, our departure date was set at the end of April. Darn, almost two more months of waiting to fly somewhere?

I would not include a photo of a flight in most cases, but, this was our first in a long long time – or that’s how it felt.

Los Cabos is comprised of two cities: Cabo San Lucas (population: 202,000) and San Jose del Cabo (population: 136,000), 20 miles apart. I didn’t know this till this trip, and it took me a while to sort out the names with multi words. There is a freeway connecting these two cities, and Los Cabos Airport (SJD) – the sixth busiest airport in Mexico – is north of San Jose del Cabo. Unlike most other cities in Mexico, Cabs are not necessarily cheap (for instance, the airport to Cabo San Lucas often costs $40-100) in Los Cabos. So renting a car made sense for us at the price we paid, we thought. Well, it turned out, we had to sit through a time share presentation in order to get the quoted price from the local agency we made a reservation with. Good thing we had time. If you are curious about public transportation and taxi options, here’s a good information page.

Many resorts are located along the ocean side of this freeway, and, ours, Krystal Grand, was one of them. We did not expect a super luxury place with what we were paying, and there was no surprise. Food was decent, service was o.k., and the facilities were adequate including a free parking service.

We didn’t realize Sea of Cortes in this part of Baja was too rough to swim in, thus, all the resorts had big swimming pools for swimming while looking at the sea, like in the first photo on this page.

Krystal Grand was actually only a mile or two from downtown San Jose del Cabo. Of the three towns we visited, we liked SJDC the best. We parked the car on a side street a few blocks away from the main square (Plaza Mijares), and we walked around.

Just to make sure you know where you are, there’s a big name plate for the town in front of the main catholic church (Mission San Jose del Cabo) on the town square.
And the town square has a huge national flag displayed like in so many town squares in Mexico
Plenty of shops and places to eat and drink line the streets. Tourists and locals mingle as they become part of the scene.
Art works were everywhere. We missed the Art Walk which happened on Thursdays.

Due to the pandemic, many businesses were not open. Thus, we just went back to the hotel and ate. Maybe because of the high temperature, we didn’t have a lot of energy, either. We did enjoy our visit, though.

Cabo San Lucas: colorful for tourists’ eyes

We had been to Cabo San Lucas as a cruise stop in December 2019. At that time, we signed up for a boat tour & got to see all there was to see off the coast of CSL. The shore excursions offered by the cruise ship were not cheap, but, we booked a glass bottom boat tour found on Tripadvisor.com. We got to see the Arch rock and other top attractions for $20 per person. We thought it was worthwhile to do this tour.

the view from our boat tour
All the boat tours start from this marina.

This time we wanted to discover other parts of Cabo San Lucas. We drove into town and wanted to check out the cathedral, but parking was impossible around there. After driving around to park, we drove into a shopping center and paid a fee (not unreasonable) to park there. We didn’t know this shopping center was connected to the Marina – we just could not get too far away from it no matter how we arrived in town either by ship or a car.

Cabo San Lacas seemed to be basically a tourist town. Locals provided goods and services to the visitors, and the most tourists either stayed at a resort or swung in and out on a cruise ship. Developed from a small fishing village, there was not a whole lot of “local culture” that a visitor could experience.

Yes, there’s a colorful name plate for this town, too! You actually find it almost everywhere you go in Mexico.

Todos Santos (population: 6,485) is a little artists’ colony an hour north of Cabo San Lucas. It is pretty much a one street (Benito Juarez Street) town, and is pretty laid back and welcoming. Street parking was not hard when we were there.

You will have to work really hard to get lost in this town. The main drag that led us here from the freeway continues through the town & that’s where most things are on the uphill slope.
Jill Logan Gallery. One thing they have enough of on one street in Todos Snatos: galleries
Mission La Paz was established in early 1720’s.
Museo de la Casa de Cultura looks like a big building in the little town & it has a nice courtyard. You are not going there to find a compelling exhibit, though.
Is this the hotel that the group Eagles sings about? Some want to believe so.
Many of the restaurants were not open either because of the pandemic or we got there on a Monday. We were happy that we walked into La Morena: great food, nice setting – and the fun bathroom signage.
No, this photo is not about the restaurant but the ice cream shop, Rocco, which was on a side street. It was a hot day. Not that we would’ve missed a chance to taste a good scoop because of weather.

The restaurant that I really wanted to try was Hierbabuena which is off the highway before reaching Todos Santos. A friend of mine who goes to Todos Santos as often as she can manage swears by this restaurant, but we were too hungry to wait till 1 PM opening time.

Maybe next time, we will start the day late & go to Hierbabuena first, have a leisurely lunch, then head on to Todos Santos. That may well be a nice full day.

The best part of our package at Krystal Grand included the free Covid-19 test, which we needed in order to get back to the U.S. We usually preferred the old colonial towns in central regions over resort beach towns in Mexico. But the pandemic brought us here, and, we were glad we did finally spend some time in Los Cabos. Now we know for sure that our original preference was valid.