July 2009

Tuesday started with a walk to Insadong and lunch at a place known for its use of fresh herbs in their cooking(closed). When we entered, there were several very large bottles of herbs soaking in different liquids. Most were probably drinks. Also, for those of you that are not familiar with Korean food, most of these places give us a ton of little plates filled with all sorts of things. Some of these little plates are beginning to look familiar. Others are not. Others look familiar, but they aren’t after I taste them. Most are reddish, but the level of spiciness varies. I have a great picture of the little dish phenomena coming up on Friday’s post. We left stuffed.

After a walk back to the apartment, we were picked up by the businessmen, with whom we are here to work. They took us to an English Village, where children go for a full week at a time, overnight and everything, to learn English. We were given a tour, and it looked like a fabulous facility, but there are some problems with the Village. First of all, there is no curriculum. The Village has many different areas to facilitate English speaking scenarios like “Immigration”, “New York Street”, or “News Station”. However, because the areas are so specific, the lessons are limited to the environment in which they take place. Second, the establishment is losing money because the kids come for a week, and then they do not come back. Third, the kids that enroll are at different levels of English speaking ability. Fourth, there is no follow-through or repetition of the English learned for most, so it goes away. Fifth, every kid we saw was playing a game. Overall, it looked like a fun English camp, but the kids might learn some new words, but they do not know much. The major discussion is how to make the village profitable and have the kids actually learn English.

 

 

After the tour, we went to this huge, impressive barbeque place for dinner with the businessmen. Kathy and I had our own grill, so we cooked a lot of meat (all proudly Korean beef), onions and garlic. After we were stuffed, YK let us know that it was time for our meal. I had forgotten that if rice doesn’t come in the beginning part of the meal, then there are courses to the meal. So, after all the meat and millions of little plates, we had rice, soup, and bimbimbap. I did not pace my stomach well that evening.

Wednesday was day one of three of recording. Kathy, Hyun and I are recording the teacher training these three days and then doing live teacher training (which will also be filmed) on Saturday and Sunday. We split up for lunch. Kathy, Hyun and Jasmine went back to the North Korean Noodle place and Dad, YK, and I went around the corner. There is this whole alleyway where there are countless places to get food. There are also a lot of people petitioning for you to go to their restaurants. One particular man, who was advertising cheap coffee, was a mime on stilts. We had bulgogi at one of the places that said we could get free drinks if we went there. After the meal, YK said “I guess this place is known for its pork”. Then the next question was, “Then why did we have beef?”

After lunch we were picked up by the driver and driven to the recording studio. Kathy and Hyun recorded during the afternoon, while Jasmine and I met up with Keh. Keh and I go way back. Many years ago, he dreamed of coming to the US and he applied to be a foreign exchange student. He ended up in Kansas. However, after spending a year in Kansas, he stayed with YK, Dad, and Patrick while he attended Venice High and then SMC. Keh and I had some adventures my last trip to Korea, and this time we included Jasmine in the mix.

Keh met us at the recording studio, and after a walk and a subway ride, we ended up in the COEX mall on the way to the Aquarium. This mall was the largest mall I have ever seen. The small bit that we saw on Wednesday just scratched the surface. Poor Keh had to put up with Jasmine and me as we stopped at many little shops looking for the perfect trinket. Eventually, we reached the Aquarium. I don’t remember ever having as much fun at an aquarium. First of all, this aquarium had monkeys, bats, a rabbit, a beaver, and penguins. Then there was a whole portion of the aquarium where they put fish tanks in normal, everyday things like a refrigerator, washing machine, a computer, and a vending machine. Also, every child under the age of three was at the aquarium that day. One boy, in particular, took a liking to me. He held my hand and wanted me to pick him up. I resisted, though it was tough. A couple of times I went to the bathroom after a million of these little toddler kids went there. I left unsatisfied. Keh, Jasmine, and I enjoyed the fish and the walkthrough giant shark tank as well. We were there for hours.

After a snack of pizza (Keh and I) and a smoothie (Jasmine) we walked to an area called Myungdong. Myungdong is a huge outside shopping area. It is like Insadong, but instead of arts and crafts and souvenirs, the shops and street vendors were selling knock-off purses, shoes, hair ties, and clothes. One of the quests of the trip was for a shirt with terrible English on it. Jasmine found one cheap that said, “Love u up, The New York”. I bought some more splat toys, this time tomatoes. We met up with Kathy, Hyun, Dad and YK at a Taipei mandu(dumplings) place that is all over China. YK chose this place because Jasmine and Kathy will not be joining us in China, because they are leaving Monday back to the US and other adventures. It is now official that YK, Dad, Hyun and I are going to Beijing and Shanghai and Jamyung, Euigyoo, and their daughter Hyanji (whose name I misspelled in the “Monday” email) are meeting us in Shanghai. The mandu place had a lot of mandu, but no soju, to my father’s disappointment. My favorite was the one that YK taught us how to eat. You pick it up with the spoon, puncture the outer wrapping, sip out the sauce, and then chew. YUMMY.

After dinner, Jasmine, Keh and I continued our adventure in Myungdong and then headed back to Insadong again. Jasmine was in charge and she got us home safe and sound.

July 2009

In my room is possibly the coolest alarm clock I have ever seen. I can’t chalk it up to Korean technology because I bet there is something like this in the US, but why the Hell isn’t it in my bedroom? So there are alarm 1 and alarm 2 settings, where you can have two preset times, but then there is a nap button. Also, unlike the air conditioner and the fancy toilet, the clock has English buttons. Saturday afternoon, I moved the nap timer from 30 minutes to 40 minutes, while everyone else took naps for most of the afternoon.

During my nap time, YK and Hyun’s brother Keun came and we all headed to B2 in the building, the food court, for dinner.  No one knew a good restaurant nearby and the idea of searching for one in the rain was not appetizing. We enjoyed our tofu soup in stone bowls.

Sunday was a slow morning. Most of the household are sleeping very funny hours due to the long naps of Saturday afternoon. I seem to be right on schedule (for now) and up at 9. After waking up, and helping myself to a cup of coffee and breakfast PBJ, I surfed the interweb, showered, and then it was time for lunch. The weather was hot, but at least it wasn’t raining. We walked to a little alley to a hole in the wall restaurant to have chicken and duck stuffed with rice, ginseng, garlic, etc. In fact, during most of the meal, the matriarch of the establishment was stuffing raw chickens right next to us. The food was great, but YK commented that if the restaurant was given a grade like the ones in LA, it would be a S, for Special.

 

 

After saying goodbye to Keun, we came home for naps (now a household custom), and after we woke up, we all headed out to Insadong. Seoul is very interesting because neighborhoods sell usually one type of goods. When we took the bus to the apartment, we passed by the wedding area (near the women’s college, my dad pointed out) and we can see the lamp area from our window. We are staying in the jewelry area near the plant, chair, and flooring areas. Insadong is an art area. There are tons of stores selling art goods and many different art galleries. It also has a 3^rd Street Promenade kinda feel with street vendors and some performers. After watching a man do soccerball tricks, and after getting kicked out of a closing gallery, we had dinner at Koong “a Korean traditional restaurant which does delicious dumplings very well.” (written on the bookmark I picked up on the way out). I agree, the dumplings were delicious.

After dinner, we shopped. Insadong is a great place for souvenirs. I bought some gifts as well as a pair of shoes I hope will work better in the rain. I packed flip flops, sneakers, and going out shoes, so I was in desperate need of something that would work in a downpour. YK and Dad got this amazingly odd Turkish ice cream and Kathy got the honey candy that was kind of a performance art.  (Street Food)

Today is Monday. After another lovely lazy morning, we took the subway to Itaewon for lunch and shopping. We had Thai for lunch (mmm green curry) and then began shopping. Itaewon has changed a lot in three years. When we were here last, there were tons of little shops selling knock-off purses and cheap clothes. It was always known as a place where Americans go shopping. Now, it seems most of those old shops have become Western shops, and not the cowboy kind. There was a Crocks store, New Balance store, Puma, Reebock, Nike etc. stores. Not to mention a McDonalds, KFC, Burger King, Starbucks and all the rest of the “comforts” from home. I bought some Dunkin’ Donuts coffee and Jasmine got some sandals and headbands, and we headed home a tad disappointed. I did see this sign though.

On the way home via the subway, I befriended an elderly Korean man. I was standing up in the subway, when an elderly woman beckoned me over and insisted I sit beside her on the subway. I soon realized that this was the “elderly and disabled” section. An elderly man walking through the trains of the subway came over to our section and I offered him my seat. On a side note, the only English TV channel is AFN (Armed Forces Network) and almost all the commercials are about not being rude Americans, reporting sexual assaults, getting help for alcoholism, or PTSD. One of the former commercials was of a man in fatigues and that would not give up his seat in the elderly and handicapped seating section to an elderly lady. I didn’t want to be that rude American, so I offered him my seat. He said, in pretty good, but a little broken English, that he was getting off on the next stop. He eventually sat down across from me and told me a little about himself. He was involved in the military, and he mentioned his battalion and fighting in China or against the Chinese (I didn’t understand that part). He then asked me what country I was from. I said the United States, California in particular. He said, and I quote, “I have a friend in Oklahoma. (pause) He died. (pause) 45 years ago.” He also was talking to all the other people in our section in Korean, including the original lady that insisted I sit in the seat. He said “Yakkity yak, yakkity yak, all these old people do is talk talk talk.” He was awesome. When we both finally got off (at the same stop) he shook my hand and I said it was a pleasure talking to him. He said “take it easy”. He made my day.

July 2009

The last trip to Korea and China, I was given the great task of sharing with others the adventures that we encounter on our voyage. With the help of Tony and Jason, Kathy, Hyun, Jasmine, Dad, YK and I headed to the airport (after pedicures, of course) and had to deal with the international terminal during construction. The one thing to note was the TSA guy commenting that I look a lot more beautiful in person than in the photo in my passport. Then he asked my dad how the two of us were related. Dad joked that he said he was my husband, but in fact, he let the TSA guy know he was my father. Hyun, YK, Dad and I lounged and then “Christ Gallagher”, as my boarding pass called me, boarded the plane.

Our 12.5 hour flight was one of the easiest I have had in a while. One thing to note was a luxury that was often mocked back in the day, that is, airplane food. I don’t remember the last time I had a meal on an airplane that I didn’t have to pay for in cash. Beef steak or bimbimbap, a sandwich, chicken and rice or shrimp and pasta were brought to us as well as assorted beverages. I had the former of each of the options. Also, each of us had our own touch screen TV where we could choose the movies we wanted to watch. I saw “He’s Just Not That Into You”, “Bride Wars”, “Paul Blart: Mall Cop”, “Taken”, and “New in Town” not necessarily in that order, as well as part of “Duplicity” and “Monsters vs. Aliens”.

When we arrived in Seoul, I realized that I should have checked the weather before I packed. My suitcase reflects a traveler in the Caribbean and not one that must now endure monsoon-esque torrential downpours. My flip-flops didn’t have a chance.

We currently are staying in the penthouse of some hotel. We have the 19^th floor, AKA the top floor, to ourselves. This penthouse is like a condo, for it has four bedrooms, 2.5 baths, a living room, dining room, kitchen, and then a mystery room. This mystery room looks like the kind of place where you could entertain a ton of people if you scattered pillows throughout the room. The view from most of the rooms, well, every bedroom but mine, is spectacular! Since it is raining, I haven’t taken many pictures. They will come. Since we were adjusting to the major time difference, we soon went to bed.

 

 

Today is Saturday. Since I am such a good sleeper (and I took a muscle relaxer before I went to bed), I was the last one up. Kathy, Hyun, and Jasmine had already gone to the market for some things. Then a lady came into the condo to spray something into the bathrooms. Lastly, after a shower we were out the door for lunch.

YK lead us to a favorite Northern Korea buckwheat noodle place that Hyun and YK went to as children and Kathy remembered fondly when she lived in Seoul. On our trip, we quickly realized two things: 1. it was going to rain, and 2. we were locked out the hotel. As we started walking, it started to rain. Rain is an understatement. IT POURED. Soon we were standing in a doorway of a shop to avoid the rain. Finally, Hyun bought three umbrellas to help us, but after getting a little lost, and wandering through the fish market (we could smell it coming), we found the restaurant.

 

 

We each had the same dish, though three of us had the spicier version (Dad, YK, and I). After they cut up the noodles, Hyun recalled as a kid that he had a hard time eating these noodles because they are hard to chew and one can gag on them as they slip down your throat. There is no doubt that Hyun’s tale was a truthful one, for there were many times in the meal where I had to keep the noodles from meeting my esophagus too soon.

 

The walk back was a shorter and more direct journey, but there was a lot more rain. For a brief bit, Dad and YK got separated from the rest of us, but we decided to meet them at the hotel. As we got there, we saw the bathroom sprayer lady, who remembered us, unlocked the hotel door for us. Just as she was doing so, YK and Dad came back. They had stopped at a bakery and bought bread and “ice cakees” or milky popsicles. After changing out of our damp clothes, we ate some ice cakes and have been recovering from our damp adventure. I hope all is well, and I’ll do my best to keep you up to date on the voyage!