Author: youkyong

Bernina Express: Tirano to St. Moritz – a Day Trip

~ youkyong

November 2017 (by YK)

 

 

here’s the train

Shall we, shall we not. I went back and forth on whether to drive to Tirano, a 90 minute trip, or not. In the end, we hopped on a local train(under $20pp, round trip) from Varenna Station to get to Tirano Station. It did not save us much time, but it was more relaxing for sure. When we were there in November, buying the tickets on spot was not a problem.

In Tirano, the Swiss railway station was right next door. It just took a few minutes to get there, then we bought the tickets from the machines. Rhaetian Railway, the company that runs the Bernina Express, has a website that is easy to use. The whole length of the Bernina Express, between Chur and Tirano, takes 4 hours either direction. We did not seem to have enough time to do a return trip in one day, thus, we chose to go to St. Moritz and back, which took about 2.5 hours each way(78 Swiss Franc per person R/T). Most people seemed to say that is the most beautiful part of the trip anyway.

From November to early May, so-called “panoramic cars” are added to the trains. Here’s the write-up about it on their website:

“The Bernina Panorama Winter offer promises great prospects: admire the white winter landscape through the extra-large windows of the observation-car trains – for a surcharge of just five francs. Now you can discover the Engadin, the Bernina range and Valposchiavo with nothing in your way.

Unimpeded views of the Morteratsch Glacier, Lago Bianco or Valposchiavo: the highest railway line through the Alps snakes its way –without the aid of a rack-and-pinion system – up to the top of the RhB, Ospizio Bernina at 2,253 metres above sea level.

The panoramic cars offer unobstructed views out over a fairytale winter landscape with snow-capped peaks, glaciers and frozen brooks. The famous stretch of track between St. Moritz and Tirano has UNESCO World Heritage status. Alp Grüm, a unique restaurant that can only be reached by railway, is the perfect place for a midday break.

In winter from 30.10.2017 to 09.05.2018, the panoramic cars operate hourly in combination with the regional trains from St. Moritz and Tirano. The RhB advises you to book well in advance. Those traveling spontaneously can pay on board the train – providing there are seats available.”

Ein Allergra-Triebzug mit Panoramawagen in der Montebellokurve am Berninapass, im Hintergrund die Berninagruppe und der Morteratschgletscher. Bild: Erik Süsskind

 You can see the different window sizes in this picture from their website.

 

 

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The Bernina Express is supposed to be THE best of the best railway rides, and UNESCO certifies it. How beautiful was it, one might ask. Beautiful, I would respond. Really, really beautiful? Well, it was quite beautiful. But I’d seen enough gorgeous sceneries around the world…  Honestly, the more snow there is, it may be more stunning. In early November, I longed for some more white stuff all over the mountains.

St. Moritz Station was modern and relatively easy to navigate through. Being right by the St. Moritz Lake, one can opt to enjoy the view & have some snacks there, then get on the next train back to Tirano. We decided to spend a bit more time there and explore the town, the playground for the rich and famous in the skiing season.

You either walk or take the bus #3 to get up to the town from the station, I had read. We first looked for the parking garage that was supposed to have the elevator that took you to the top, but it was not obvious to us. The bus was easier to find since the stops were right outside the station building. The ticket(5 CHF) machines were by the exit door inside the building.

St. Moritz in the off-season was extremely quiet and empty. Some of the restaurants and hotels were not open. We could kind of picture the charm of the city when it’s all white, but there are many other wonderful places in Switzerland, right?

We had a lunch at Houser Restaurant, and the price was not too unreasonable for a restaurant in Switzerland. On the way back, we had some time to kill before getting on our train back to Varenna. The Italian town of Torino didn’t seem that exciting, but there were places to eat/drink around the station area. We walked into a cafe & had a satisfying drink/snack time, and the price tag was very friendly & that suited us just fine.

Morocco Itinerary(12N/13D) in Nov. 2018

~ youkyong ~ 8 Comments

November 2018 (by YK)

Our next cruise is an Adriatic one in November in and out of Barcelona on Celebrity Eclipse. When we land in Barcelona on November 23rd, we plan to hop on a plane to go to Morocco for 12 nights.

This will be our first trip to Morocco, and we will travel with two other couples from Korea who are all new to Morocco. After reading itinerary suggestions online and checking out various tour company’s offerings, I settled on a 12N/13D schedule for us. One of us is an avid sailor, and he’s interested in visiting Tangier, which, he says, is one of the places every sailor dreams of visiting. So that’s where we will start. Except for the beach towns, we can cover most of the major sites and towns in this itinerary.

Everyone says the highlight of any trip to Morocco is the visit to the Sahara Desert. I figure it will be easier to have a local guide/driver for this portion of the trip, thus, we will hire someone. Moving from town to town, we will hire a van taxi. Most Airbnb hosts can help with this in Morocco.

The total budget for this trip comes out to be about $600 per person. Most meals are NOT included in this figure. Meals seem to be cheap & we will expect to spend no more than $200 per person.

– Nov. 23(F): BCN to Tangier by Air Arabia ($73; bag check 15kg) 11:20 -> 12:10

stay:  Airbnb 3BR/2BTH($113)      blog page

– Nov. 24(Sa): to Chefchaouen  2.5 hrs. by private van($25/couple) driver:Abdesalat
  stay: Airbnb 3BD/2BTH($122, with washer)    blog page
– Nov. 25(Su): Chefchaouen to Fez   4 hours by private van($35/couple) – Abdesalat
  stay: Airbnb 3BD/2BTH ($181, with washer)
– Nov. 26(M): Fez       blog page
– Nov. 27(Tu): Atlas Mt. & the Sahara tour***  (see below)  blog page
  stay: hotel
– Nov. 28(W): continue      blog page
  stay: luxury tent
– Nov. 29(Th): continue     blog page
  stay: hotel
– Nov. 30(F): to Marrakesh by private van, will arrange locally
  stay: Airbnb 3BD/2BTH            blog page
– Dec. 1(Sa): Marrakesh
– Dec. 2(Su): Marrakesh
– Dec. 3(M): to Casablanca   by private van, will arrange locally($170)
  stay: Airbnb 3BD/2BTH($110, with washer)         blog page
– Dec. 4(Tu): Rabat   by private van, will arrange locally
This was the original idea, but We decided to stay put in Casablanca to have a bit of down time at the end of this grand tour.
– Dec. 5(F): to Barcelona    Air Arabia #30373($93; bag check 15kg)  17:55 -> 21:00
This should be the end of this Morocco trip. But nobody will catch a plane the same night, thus, we will spend another night together in Barcelona.
stay: Airbnb 3BD/2BTH($161, with washer/dryer)
———–
*** tour description:
Submitted by Iddir of Marvelous Morocco Tours: we checked with 4 different companies recommended by various people online & settled on this one (liked price + itinerary)

4 Days 3 Nights Fes to Marrakech Sahara Desert

Day 1: Fes – Ifrane – Azrou – Midelt – Ziz Valley – Erg Chebbi Dunes.
Pick up from your hotel in Fes very earlier by our MMT Teams and departure for the south of Morocco. You will have a stop in Ifrane, known as the Switzerland of Morocco to enjoy its beauty and to have memorable photos. After that, you will head toward Azrou to see the monkies in the cedar forest. Continuing to Midelt for a lunch meal in a restaurant. In the afternoon, we will cross the pass of TIZI N TALGHAMT to reach Errachidia while admiring the views of Ziz gorges. Later on, you will have a stop for a panoramic view of Ziz valley. The drive continues to Erg Chebbi Dunes passing by Aoufous and Erfoud (the last is famous with fossils and dates) where you may want to visit a local fossil craft workshop. After that you will continue to the captivating dunes of Erg Chebbi, these dunes are called also Merzouga Dunes. Arrive to the hotel where you will spend the night. Dinner and breakfast in the hotel.

Day 2: Merzouga – Hassi labied – Khamlia – Nomad family – fossil Site – Tour of the dunes
This morning after breakfast in the hotel. You will have a tour of the dunes on 4×4 allowing you to visit the black volcanic rocks of fossils, visit a nomad family living in a tent, visit to khamlia village and entertainment of their spiritual music of Gnawa, and visit the lake Dayet Sarji that forms in springtime which attracts pink flamingos and wildlife. Then you will have a break for lunch in Merzouga or Hassi Labied. After lunch, you will see the canal irrigation system and have a walk on the oasis located on the foot of the dunes. Continue to your hotel to relax. Arrive at the hotel and get ready for a camel trek for an hour and a half to enjoy the sunset. While on the back of your dromedary, you will continue to the camp for an overnight in traditional nomad tent. Dinner and spend the night in Our private desert camp in the middle of the dunes.

Day 3: Erg Chebbi Dune-Erfoud-Tinejdad-Todra Gorges-Boumalne Du Dades-Kelaa M’gouna
Wake up early morning to enjoy the sunrise on the top of the dune in the Sahara Desert then have your breakfast. After these beautiful moments, you will ride your camel back to the hotel where you can shower. We depart towards Tineghir passing by Erfoud and Tinejdad. Have a break for lunch. In the afternoon, we will continue to Todra gorges via Tineghir. Stopping along the way for photos and admiring the views. Arrival to Todra Gorges to enjoy its marvelous Canyons views while hiking on foot. Later on, we drive to Boumalne du Dades or Kalaa M’gouna and stopping for a panoramic view of Dades valley. Dinner and overnight at the hotel.

Day 4: Boumalne Du Dades-Kelaa M’gouna-Ouarzazate-Ait Benhaddou-Tizi N’tichka Pass-Marrakech
This morning after breakfast in the hotel, We depart to Ouarzazate via Skoura. Stopping for a panoramic view of the kasbah of Taourirt then another photo stop near the Atlas film studios. After that, you will visit the Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou and stop for lunch in a local restaurant in the village. In the Afternoon we will drive to Marrakech over the mountains of high Atlas passing through the Tizi N’tichka pass (2260 m in altitude). Drop off in Marrakech.

it includes:
-Private A/C Vehicle, 4X4  throughout the tour + fuel
-Experienced English/ Italian  speaking driver

-overnight in private Berber Camp tent with private bathroom including Dinner & Breakfast
–Free time to explore the sites such as Ait Benhaddou, Kasbah, Walks, Canyons, Breaks for photos,…Etc
-Camel Trekking 1 hour and half
-Sand Boarding
-Sunrise
-Sunset
-Vegetarians are welcome.

*it dose not include:
-lunches, drinks.

accommodation except the desert*.

* Cost per person Budget is 145 Euros, private tour for  6 people.(4 days\ 3 nights Fes Marrakech  Desert Tour)

* Cost per person Mid – Range is 185 Euros, private tour for  6  people. ( 4 days\ 3 nights Fes Marrakech  Desert Tour)

* Cost per person Luxury is 235 Euros, private tour for 6 people.  ( 4 days\ 3 nights Fes Marrakech  Desert Tour)

Varenna & Lake Como(Italy): 2N/2D

~ youkyong

November 2017 (by YK)

IMG_0626

I was driving. If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn’t have been. I had found it a bit odd that no one was recommending it in any of the write-ups that I had come across regarding getting to Varenna. It looked like a nice, simple enough drive along the east coast of Lake Como.

Well, those who knew about this road know what I ran into. That 36km drive on route SP583 from Como to Bellagio was the scariest drive I’ve ever had in my life. Pretty? It could’ve been, but I could not look or feel. The hilly narrow road came with hairpin turns, and it was filled with motorcycles. They were all speeding like crazy. There was no break even to take a breath. My passengers were conspicuously quiet except when they blurted out, “Oh, My God!” every now and then. Maybe it was worse that day because it was some kind of a holiday, but I am not brave enough to go back & try again to find out.

Coming from Stressa area, next time I’d try to take S340 from Como and drive up the west coast of Lake Como to Menaggio then get on the ferry across to Varenna. This may be the better way to get to Bellagio as well.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Once we arrived in Bellagio, a little village packed with big pretty mansions, the ferry port was not hard to find. SP583 pretty much ends where the port is. There were several different lines for the ferries going to different destinations on the lake. We had to get out of the car & look around to make sure we were in the right lane. In November 2017, the ferries heading to Varenna from Bellagio ran every 30 minutes or so, and the cost was reasonable. More information here.

There were plenty of cafes and restaurants around the port area in Bellagio so that we could get drinks and snacks while waiting. Once we arrived in Varenna after a 20-minute boat ride, there was nothing much right by the port area, but Varenna is a small enough town, and you can drive to the center of town in 5-10 minutes from there.

Our Aibnb studio was up the hill, and I mean up and up. When there was a choice, you took the road going up. This meant we were almost next to the castle, Castello di Vezio. There were plenty of signs pointing to the right direction to find it, and the walk in small alleyways in the surrounding area was fun. People climbing up to the castle from the village down below may have a different experience, though. The small cafe by the castle entrance was good for snacks and drinks, and do not miss the falconry show if you go there.

The restaurants in Varenna were all good and not too expensive(under 20 euros for a decent main course). Well, at least the ones we checked out the menu were like that. There is a big parking garage toward the south end of the main drag in town as the road turns east and becomes a highway. Parking fee was reasonable and you can walk 5 minutes to the right as you exit the garage & come to a small plaza across from a church.  There are at least a dozen or more eateries in this area. We tried Al Prato down an alleyway from here & loved it. I believe those two plates in the photos above are from there, but I could be wrong. As Pat says, you can’t have a bad meal in Italy. We had to go to Albergo Del Sole (right on the plaza) one night because all others were closed. It was more down-home & quite decent.

We did not have time to do much else since one of our 2 days here was spent doing the Bernina Express train trip. But here’s a suggestion by Lonely Planet.