El Jem (Tunisia): a Day Trip

May 2025

Most tours of Tunisia include El Jem in their itinerary because of this well preserved Roman amphitheatre

We stopped in El Jem (population: 21,000) on the way back to Tunis from the Sahara region. We found a good grill restaurant right across from the main entrance to the amphitheatre.

My grilled fish was very good, and the fresh squeezed juice was delicious.
There were some antique and knick knack shops next to the restaurant.

We didn’t find the town particularly charming in any way. But it has the biggest Roman amphitheatre outside of Italy. It used to hold 35,000 people, they say. Walking around the complex, I felt there were a lot of stories buried there.

So I asked Google what sort of stuff went on in these venues during Roman times.

Sorry I asked. No wonder I’ve never really been attracted to the amphitheatres.

The International Symphonic Music Festival of El Jem is held here every August. That’s something we would have loved to attend!

I almost  chose Kairouan as the lunch stop instead of El Jem. That would have been a completely different experience since Kairouan is all about the mosques. But it’s a much bigger city (population: 200,000+) and going in and out would have taken much longer.

We could have done both if we were willing to add a couple more hours to the trip. We admit we are lazy (or laid back?) travelers who don’t have to see/do everything, though.

Itinerary link