Nation of Brunei

October 2019  [by Bill]

This morning I left Bali, Indonesia on a 2 hour 20 minute flight to the Nation of Brunei, an oil rich kingdom, where I’ll be staying for a few days. From what I can tell, a few days should be enough time to check out the palaces, religious sites, parks, and other attractions.

In the afternoon of my first full day in Brunei, my driver and guide, Hans, took me for a photo opportunity of the absolutely stunning Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, and the surrounding park-like complex. Hans left me there to explore for about 40-minutes while he went to pray (the timing was perfect, just as I was finished, he pulled up in his car).

brunei1             brunei2brunei3brunei4
This mosque is truly magnificent in every way possible. I walked completely around the gateway. It wasn’t clear to me if I was allowed to enter, so I only walked maybe 1/3 of the way towards the mosque and then, out of respect, decided I should turn around. The mosque is surrounded by water on 3-sides, with a large ceremonial, highly decorated “boat”  floating next to it.
Over the last few years, the sultan has added a large space next to the mosque, which is kinda an open park space for both locals and tourists to enjoy. I only saw a few people walking around. There’s also a modern foot bridge which is very nice, and includes a half moon sculpture in the middle.
When I got back into Hans car, he told me that he had asked the gentleman at the front of the mosque if I would be allowed to enter, as they do allow tourists on certain days and at certain times. We drive to the front, I put on a appropriate cover to hide my legs, and was given a quick tour of the interior. As a surprise, one of the caretakers asked me if I’d like to take a photo or two, and I said if that was allowed, I’d be honored. I even took a quick video, with his permission. Fantastico!

After that, I walked through the Royal Regalia Centre, which showcases the coronation of the sultan.

While you aren’t allowed to take photos of most of the interior artifacts, and there are many, the oversized entry area has a fantastic display of many of the items used during this occasion.

I was then taken to walk through the Empire Hotel, which is a monstrous hotel complex, hugging the waterfront (I believe it’s located in the southern part of the South China Sea). When the Empire was first built, I was told it was one of just a handful of 6 star hotels in the world. The lower lobby is over the top incredible, with 75 foot “gold painted” tall pillars. Outside, there’s a number of water features, pools, plus a couple of private coves, a golf course, and the shoreline. I was there as the sun was going down, so the timing was great.

 

Today I took a full day tour to Temburong, which is outside of the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei.

Just before I was picked up about 7:00 AM, it was pouring rain. The ride took 20 minutes, then I hopped into a fast water taxi for a 45-minute trip to the town of Bangar. Along the way, we passed through a maze of waterways/water highways, dense forest areas and lots of mangroves.

brunei11

Afterwards, I took another vehicle to Batang Duri. Enjoyed morning tea, before boarding a long boat for Ulu Temburong, which is a National Park. It’s interesting to note that this park in Brunei is separated by water from the rest of the country, with a sliver of Malaysia betweeni the 2 parts of Brunei.

brunei13
Ulu Temburong is known for its dense forest with an elevated canopy walkway. We walked along a dirt pathway and a 750 step incline (ouch). Once on top, I was faced with a 25 story, straight vertical scaffolding ascent. I walked up 3 flights and just couldn’t go any further, as my legs were unsteady. I wasn’t able to enjoy the scenic views from the canopy above, which was the main reason I signed up for this tour. I’m super bummed out that I had to turn back, but I gave it all I had, and have to be satisfied with what I was able to achieve.

brunei15

We then visited a waterfall.

Part of this tour included a rafting/kayaking trip down a moderately small river.

At 1:30 PM we enjoyed lunch, and then started to head back to Bandar Seri Begawan, arriving around 5:00 PM.

The weather was about 80 degrees, lots of clouds, and the humidity once we entered the rainforest was incredibly intense (I was 100% wet, through and through).

brunei14

About 100 people make this trip per day, of whom about 10-15 get all the way to the top of the canopy. In our group, we had 4 tourists from China, all under 25-years old, 1 32 year old guy from London, and me, a61  year old guy. Only the guy from London made it to the top of the canopy. I asked him to Airdrop me a few of his photos from the canopy, so I could see what I missed, and share those with you as well.

tour info:  Freme Travel Services
Total cost approximately USD $108

Brunei factoids:

400,000+  locals reside in the country

On my final day in Brunei, I asked the DART driver Hans to take me to a couple of places not far from the apartment I’ve been staying at.

First off was a stop at the gorgeous Jame Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. It’s surrounded by gold painted metal fences, with a huge covered walkway to the entrance of the mosque (it has cubby units for worshipers to leave their shoes before entering to pray).
The actual mosque is very large, with a number of gold covered smaller domes, as well as one large dome. Unfortunately it’s not open to visitors on Thursdays, so I wasn’t able to go inside. On the grounds of the mosque are water features, and some very nice garden areas, not to mention a grand circle outer staircase. Overall, stunningly beautiful!
As we were driving to a waterfall I had read about, we passed a nice looking park, so I hopped out of the car and walked around for a few minutes. There’s a small river running towards the back of the park, and I saw a large monitor water lizard, but it was way to fast for me to get a photo of it running along the waters edge. I did see 2 smaller ones as well.
I was then taken to a different park which is fairly close to the main part of the city. It felt like it was part of a small forest area. About 3/4 of a mile in, there’s a very picturesque waterfall.
In the afternoon I had booked a 1/2 day tour of the original water village, as well as a mangrove forest. Unfortunately, the driver never showed up.
Brunei reflections:
The airport is very small, 8 gates in total
Shira law is strictly enforced
If you are caught selling drugs, you are subject to the death penalty
70%+ of the land is part of their rain forest