September 2011
Wednesday, 9/7
We docked at Haifa yesterday at 1pm. After lunch (for, me Cajun seafood gumbo, quail with pomegranate glaze, and a brownie sundae with chocolate and caramel sauce,) we set out into the city. We took a tram to the top of Mt. Carmel, overlooking the harbor, and visited the Carmelite church Stella Maris. From there we walked along the side of the mountain to what yk referred to as a subway, but which was really an underground cable car, and traveled father up, looking for views. On the way down we came upon the beautiful Bahai gardens and temples, but they had closed for the day. We continued down, taking staircases and alleys, back to the ship, which, by the way, is easily the largest structure in the city.
Haifa is not a particularly clean or attractive city.
Today we took the train to Acre, continuously occupied since the days of the Phoenicians. It was the headquarters of the crusaders, specifically the Knights Hospitallers and the Knights Templar, for over a hundred years.
We visited the fortress of the Hospitallers and the tunnel of the Knights Templar. The story is that the Knights Templar were the precursors of Western Union. Pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land did not want to carry large sums of cash overland, so they would deposit the cash with the Templars and pick it up, less a large commission, in Acre. Since they were handling large sums of cash, the Templars built a tunnel from the harbor to their fortress so the cash could be transported from their ships safely.
Tonight we sail to Ashdod. Yk and I will catch a bus to Jerusalem and spend the night in a hotel just outside the old city.
Friday, Sept. 9
We came to Jerusalem yesterday and walked around the old city. It consists largely of a maze of narrow covered streets with shops on both sides. Not at all what I expected. Very difficult to get one’s bearings.
We did visit the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the western wall and the Temple Mount, but couldn’t enter the Temple Mount because, for some unknown reason, it was closing.
Have to return to the ship early today as everything, including bus service, shuts down midday on Friday.
We figured out our problems with old Jerusalem. We had taken a cab from the port to the bus terminal in Ashdod, a bus to Jerusalem, and another cab to our hotel outside the old city. We entered the old city late morning, not by the gate we intended. As a result, nothing we were looking for was there and we found ourselves lost in a crowded maze of covered streets, no idea where we were. The place is not large, but it’s impossible to get perspective.
We finally figured things out to some extent, had lunch at a lovely Armenian restaurant and located the sites I’ve mentioned earlier.
This morning we entered by the Damascus Gate, our intended gate and found our way around much more easily. We returned to the Holy Sepulcher, which was much less crowded in the morning, and were able to walk around for a while. The church has lots of different nooks and crannies and a number of different levels, none of which were evident yesterday. We located the site of the crucifixion, which is inside the church, but the line to enter the tomb was still forbiddingly long,
I’m sure the financial model of the cruising industry is heavily dependent on shipboard sales (they certainly aren’t making much money on the fare we paid for this cruise.) There’s a casino, several high-end shops, numerous bars and specialty restaurants which require an extra fee. All of these can be avoided if desired and drink and wine prices are generally reasonable (one can purchase a nice bottle of wine at dinner for $30 – $40 and spread it over two dinners.)
I think the big profit item is shore excursions. They are pushed hard and are expensive, but also very convenient. Most of our ports are some distance from the places people want to see, Nazareth, Bethlehem, Galilee, Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, etc. and prearranged transportation and a guide would be very helpful.
Being cheapskates, we went to Acre and Jerusalem on our own. Probably our biggest problem was dealing with Israeli cab drivers who seem to range from merely shady to crooks. You know you are going to get ripped off, the aim is to keep it reasonable.
Our experience in Acre wasn’t too bad. We couldn’t find the bus to the old city, so we took a cab. No meter. When we got there, a relatively short ride, we were charged 20 shekalim, about $5.50. Not too bad. On our return trip, however, again no meter, we were charged 14, barely more than bus fare would have been. At this point, we ran out of honest cab drivers.
The cab drivers at Ashdod were interested in selling all day tour packages. We just wanted a ride from the port to the central bus station. One guy agreed to take us to the bus terminal for 50 shekalim, which seemed like a lot, but we were splitting it with another couple and wanted to get started. During the ride he continually explained how we could save time and money if we would let him take us on an all-day tour for 200 euros, just “50 euros each.” There were no takers.
In Jerusalem, the first cab we approached to take us to our hotel wanted 75, explaining that it was a long a tricky trip, which I knew to be false. We walked away. The next guy said he would charge the meter, which was the first time I had heard of a meter. Once in the cab, I saw no meter and he took a long roundabout route, explaining that he was avoiding traffic. Once we got there, he opened the glove compartment and, low and behold, there was a meter displaying 60. For all I know it displayed that from the time we entered the cab, but it was at least better than 75.
We avoided any other cabs in Jerusalem with the help of the lady at the hotel who wrote down central bus terminal in Hebrew and Arabic and a very nice young man in the traditional Hebrew garb of black suit over a prayer shawl, who walked us a long way from the wrong bus stop to the right bus stop.
Our real scammer was our last ride in Ashdod. We took the cab from the bus terminal back to the port. As usual, there was no meter, but I assumed the guy was aware we had already taken a cab the other way. When we arrived at the port, I asked the fare and he said 20. This puzzled me, I knew it was too cheap. Then he added “euros.” When I indicated I was paying in shekalim, he demanded 100. I said no way, handed a 50 and got out.
All in all, I’m not sure the trip to Jerusalem was worth the hassle, but was something we had to do. There’s only so much you can take back from crowded tourist spots.
Sat., Sept. 10
We are back on Homer’s wine-dark sea. After 4 days in one port or another, I appreciate the sea day. Nothing to do but decide when to eat and where to sit when you’re not eating. We attended a lecture on Ephesus by the resident historian and did little else. Enjoyed two for one drinks from 4 to 6.
Small Wide World 